Never Discard Scallop Roe: Turn Them To a Luxury Butter – Method
Beyond its breathtaking beaches and rugged shoreline, Jersey features a exceptional food tradition, deeply rooted in both soil and ocean. From world-famous local baby potatoes to shellfish sweeter and softer than those found anywhere else, the island's bounty is unsurpassed. What excites many above all, though, is how local farmers and growers are embracing regenerative farming, and in doing so reinventing the island's food future with innovation and dedication.
Last month, I was fortunate to host a discussion at an inspiring gathering, and cook a welcome meal for the participants, alongside a inspiring organizer. Naturally, scallops had to be on the menu, since they're the island at its best: subtle, plump and bursting of the sea.
These mollusks seem to me the perfect embodiment of the island's food future: succulent, full and restorative by design, purifying and cleaning the water while contributing to build shoreline ecosystems. Both cultivated and, importantly, hand-harvested, they are one of the most sustainable proteins to eat. Yet even, who grew up on Jersey, don't eat their eggs – an often-seen habit, I fear. All the more justification to champion these rosy morsels, that are much too delicious to discard. Whipped into butter, they become sheer luxury: melt over scallops, stir into rice dishes or just slather on toasted bread.
Scallops can be a little expensive, however, so I have devised the following method to transform just one scallop into an impressive starter (or three into a satisfying main course) and, by whipping their roe into smoked paprika spread and roasting the scallops in their shells with cherry tomatoes and garlic, unused parts becomes a luxury.
This spirit of transformation is central to the movement, that introduced a prize providing funding to innovators with backing, mentorship and access to a marketplace. Evaluated by some of esteemed food experts, the award is to be presented during an forthcoming event. It's focused on backing concepts that can assist our food systems flourish, across the board, and I can't think of a more exciting location for this dialogue to begin than here.
Scallops Roasted in Roe Butter with Small Tomatoes and Crushed Garlic
Serves six as a starter or two as a main course
6 with eggs shellfish in the shell
Eighteen cherry tomatoes, halved
Six cloves of garlic, crushed
3 whole red chillies (such as jalapeño), split lengthways, or one dash chilli flakes, or to preference (if desired)
50g butter
One teaspoon smoked or sweet paprika
Salt and pepper, to taste
Lemon slices, to accompany
Some sea asparagus, saltwort or 6 tiny gherkin slices, to decorate (optional)
Prepare the shellfish, detaching the eggs from every and leaving the rest of the scallop fixed to the half-shell (ask the fishmonger to handle this for you, if necessary). Put six halved tomatoes in every half-shell with a clove's worth of smashed garlic and one half a chili pepper, if using.
Transfer the eggs in the jug of a hand blender (I find it's the most effective tool for blending tiny quantities), add the spread and paprika, and blitz until creamy. Divide the mixture between the half-shells, ensuring each shellfish is thoroughly coated in the spread.
Heat the broiler until it is scorching hot, then place the shellfish under the flame for 6-8 minutes, until charred and sizzling. Present right away, garnished with if desired samphire, herbs, a piece of pickle and/or a drizzle of the gherkin brine or a bit of lemon.